With pristine white buildings gleaming along a turquoise shore, it’s easy to mistake the seaside city of Cádiz for one of Andalusia’s famous White Towns, also known as the “Pueblos Blancos.” But technically, Cádiz is not considered one of the 19 Pueblos Blancos even though it shares many of their characteristics, such as whitewashed houses that stand out against the scenery, narrow streets that lead to cute town squares, and a relaxed vibe that conceals a complex history.
We visited Cádiz for a few reasons. First, it’s a picturesque city surrounded on three sides by water (the Gulf of Cádiz which flows into the Atlantic ocean), meaning it has beaches! Second, it’s less touristy so it’s a great place to experience the local culture and cuisine. And third, it was easy to get to from where we were staying in Seville (you can do a day trip there!).
Now, as calm and quaint as Cádiz is today, it was once a major stronghold that launched explorers, lured traders, and fought invaders.
Cádiz is the oldest city in Spain. It was first settled by the Phoenicians in the 8th century BC and it has been continuously inhabited since then. From 711 to 1262, Cádiz was ruled by the Moors (Muslim Berbers and Arabs from North Africa and the Middle East) who called the city “Qādis,” which means “the fortified compound” in Arabic.
During their 500 years in power, the Moors developed the city’s maritime trade by building shipyards and establishing trading routes that stretched across the Mediterranean Sea. They also constructed whitewashed houses that reflected heat and stayed cool in the searing summers. To improve agriculture, the Moors introduced new crops and water management techniques, including the use of aqueducts, canals, and reservoirs.
After Cádiz was conquered by Christians, it became a hub for Spanish exploration and military activity. Christopher Columbus set sail from Cádiz on two of his voyages. As a result, Cádiz became a target of Spain’s enemies. It was raided, looted, and almost burned completely to the ground. That’s why Cádiz has over 100 watchtowers!
One of Cádiz’s watchtowers… as seen from another watchtower
This coastal city’s history was marked by periods of both prosperity and pillage. The Moors, who helped the city flourish, were eventually expelled but they had a lasting impact on its architecture, economy, and gastronomy. You can still see whitewashed homes, it remains a key trading port, and Cádiz’s most popular dishes are infused with flavors and spices from Moorish cuisine. Even its current Spanish name “Cádiz” is derived from its Arabic name “Qādis.”
Cádiz is located 75 miles (121 kilometers) south from Seville. Saad and I rented a car and drove there and back. The drive is not hard or long - it took us just under an hour and half each way on the AP-4 highway, which is a toll road. If you don’t want to drive, the next best option is to take the Alvia high-speed train from Seville’s Santa Justa station to Cádiz Central station. The Alvia will get you to Cádiz comfortably (it has free Wi-Fi and power outlets at every seat) in about the same time.
When we arrived in Cádiz, the first thing we did was find a parking spot where we could leave our car for the day because Cádiz is best explored on foot. The fun part of visiting a charming place like this, which is off the beaten path, is to get lost in its maze of streets and stumble upon local shops, cozy cafes, and charming little plazas. The most memorable adventures don’t follow a strict schedule; they allow time for curiosity to lead the way.
Strolling around sunny Cádiz in my sunny skirt
Saad and I spent an afternoon doing just that and here’s what we discovered about Cádiz:
No matter where you stop on the way, save your appetite for Cádiz. Saad and I skipped all the detours to ensure we made it to Cádiz during lunch hours. Sometimes instead of our curiosity, we let our stomachs lead the way. I have regrets about missing the White Towns, but not the food because it was delectable.
Cádiz’s culinary landscape is a vibrant mix of Spanish and Mediterranean dishes that are rooted in history while also tasting refreshingly modern. Given the city’s coastal location and focus on fishing, the best thing to eat in Cádiz are seafood tapas. Tapas are small plates with small portions of food. They’re the perfect size for sampling a variety of dishes. We dined at Sopranis. It was a tiny, family-run restaurant tucked away on one of the side streets, so it wasn’t buzzing with patrons, but the food was fresh and delicious. Try their patatas bravas, seafood cannelloni, and prawn croquettes. If you’re feeling adventurous and want to try funkier more inventive tapas, I recommend La Candela.
Patatas bravas and seafood tapas at Sopranis
If you know me, you know I rarely skip dessert. So, what do I recommend for my fellow sweet-toothed travelers in this beachy Spanish city? Gelato of course! It’s creamy, cold, and easy to hold as you stroll through the streets or on the sand. The two best gelaterias in Cádiz are Heladeria El Limonero and Narigoni Gelato. Narigoni’s Kinder Bueno and cookie caramel flavors were our favorite.
Narigoni Gelato was so good, Saad didn't even take his spoon out of his mouth for this picture #classyguy
Speaking of chill life, we didn’t come to Cádiz with a structured itinerary, but we did have a rough idea of what we wanted to see. With our gelato in hand, we started with the cathedral of Cádiz. This Roman Catholic cathedral was built with the new money that poured in during Cádiz’s golden age of trade in the 18th century. While it didn’t take as long as Gaudi’s Sagrada Família to be completed, construction of Cádiz Cathedral still took 116 years. The cathedral’s architecture is a mix of styles because construction began in the baroque style but ended in the neoclassical style.
Cádiz Cathedral pictured with the surrounding palm trees to show you the vibe…
…and a picture without palm trees for a better look at the architecture and towers
Cádiz’s booming trade also led to the construction of its watchtowers. Wealthy merchants built watchtowers on their roofs so they could monitor the arrival and departure of their ships, and protect them from maritime threats like pirates. There are 134 watchtowers still standing in Cádiz. The most famous one is Torre Tavira (named after its first watchman), located in the center of the Old Town with a height of 45 meters above sea level (the highest point in the city).
Like other watchtowers, Torre Tavira (a.k.a. Tavira Tower) was originally part of a well-to-do lord’s residence that has since been converted into rooms of exhibits. There’s an exhibit on Cádiz’s golden age of trade and Spain’s first Constitution, which was signed in Cádiz. There’s another exhibit dedicated to the tower’s camera obscura. If you have no idea what a “camera obscura” is (me) or think that it sounds like a Harry Potter spell (me again), let me demystify it. It’s basically an old-fashioned optical device that was used by artists like Leonardo da Vinci to project real-time moving images of what’s happening outside. Although outdated, Torre Tavira’s camera obscura is a unique way to see the city’s monuments.
You can stop at these exhibits on the way up to Torre Tavira’s viewpoint. Now THIS viewpoint is worth the climb because look at that fantastic skyline of Cádiz! You can see the cathedral’s gold-tiled dome and bell towers standing out amongst the flat roofs. How many other watchtowers can you spot?
The view from Torre Tavira
This picture was brought to you by…
…my airborne hat and flying skirt wardrobe malfunctions 🤣
On our way back to the car, we decided to take the scenic route by walking along the beach and coast. La Caleta is the closest beach to the historic center. It’s a local favorite because it’s sandwiched between two castles on the coast, so even if you don’t swim, it’s a nice walk.
One of the entrances to La Caleta (I didn’t take a picture of the beach because it was crowded)
Views during our walk by the shore
The main reason we came to southern Spain was to see the legacy of our Muslim ancestors, most beautifully preserved in the landmarks of Andalusia. Our Moorish tour started in Seville, then we came to Cádiz to eat, and afterwards we continued on to Córdoba and Granada, home to more jewels of Islamic architecture.